|
What is your inspiration for your art? |
|
It comes from the wood itself as I experience it coming alive on the lathe by cutting away the unwanted parts to find the desired heart of the piece, much as a sculptor would use chisel and mallet to fashion his contours. |
|
How do the geometric designs emerge? |
|
Some imitate Native American weavings, others come from my wife’s quilt design wall; in some spalted woods I see Smoky Mountain sunsets in everchanging light. I often sketch a new design after a visit to an art museum. A drawing of the solar system suggested one of my blocks that uses planet-like circles. Patterns are constantly swimming around in my head. |
|
Are your pieces one-of-a-kind? |
|
The turnings pictured here in my website catalog are unique and may already be sold. |
|
So, if I see a bowl design I like, can you produce a bowl exactly like it? |
|
I use a numeric system for my catalog, including a sketch of a bowl’s silhouette, and all the woods I used in its production. This allows me to make a very close reproduction. Your bowl would never be exactly the same. You may like the bowl's overall design, but would like me to use the woods of your choice. I do a lot of custom work. |
|
Can you describe your process? How long does it take to make a bowl? |
|
Producing a segmented bowl is a very long process. I first turn a bottom section (sometimes laminated from many pieces). Then I start to do a middle section: I build each block in the design individually. I build the section by glueing precision cuts of these blocks into a 360 degree ring, held together by a giant rubber band. I set it aside to dry. I pre-assemble many rings and stock them away, ready to attach to a turned bottom. When the middle is glued securely to the bottom section, I turn this new assembly on my lathe. To this I glue a new multi-block ring to serve as a rim, and allow it to dry completely. Then I place the entire assembly back on the lathe for final turning and finishing. So, I have a number of bowls in process at a time, usually 8-10. If I'm at the point of the final finishing step, I can sometimes finish 8-10 in one day. So, it's almost impossible to say how long one bowl takes. |
|
How are your food-safe pieces finished? |
All of my work is food-safe and functional. I employ sanding sealer to fill the cells of the wood and stabilize the piece.
I don’t use stains or dyes at all; all colors are natural. My low gloss finish is a combination of beeswax and oil. |
|
How do I care for my bowl or platter? |
|
Simply wash them by hand with mild detergent and water and dry thoroughly. Don’t let liquids stand in them. Occasionally you may refresh the finish with a coat of food-grade light mineral oil, found easily in the pharmacy or grocery. |
|
Where do you get your woods? |
|
Black Walnut, Cherry, Maple, Poplar, Oak, Hickory, I harvest from my own 10 acres bordering Winchester Creek. I buy some native woods and exotics, like Purpleheart and Osage Orange. Much of my stock comes from the waste bins of other woodworkers--like Brazilian Cherry, Spanish Cedar, Bloodwood, Pink Ivory, Wenge and Iroka. I'm always looking for Burls of any species. One of my customers delivered her own Oak to my shop. It was harvested from her family's homeplace where many generations had lived. She ordered bowls and platters for each of her 4 children, as a keepsake, symbolizing their heritage. I enjoyed crafting this very special order. |
|
Do you offer lessons and supplies? |
|
I teach woodturning, including segmented turning, in my shop in Waynesville, NC. I also sell pen blanks, wood cuts, pre-assembled segmented rings and blocks. Just call 828-421-2693 to discuss your interest and supply needs. |
|
How do you waterproof your new vessel sinks? Won't they leak? |
|
I use 4 coats of a superior product called Waterlox.(registered trademark). It is a proven product, a tung oil derivative; it has been around since 1916. My sinks are guaranteed not to leak. There is more information on their website: www.waterlox.com |
|
<< Start < Prev 1 2 Next > End >>
|
